Acid exfoliation is the most common and well-known type of exfoliation. While extremely effective, it is a type that is easy to overuse and is the most susceptible form to user error. The two primary types of acid exfoliation are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs).

Many skincare users either use the wrong type of acid for their skin type, causing a reaction resulting in the discontinuing of acid use altogether; or they use too many formulations at once (many treatment products, even if not specifically marketed as an exfoliant, have some type of acid, so it’s easy to unknowingly stack many within a single routine), or use too strong of acid products that compromise their skin barrier. Both incompatible products and overuse are equally detrimental to the skin.

Currently, exfoliating acids are seen everywhere in the marketplace – and for good reason! You can find strong acids on shelves of department stores, physician offices, and in drugstores. Why is this? First, they are clinically proven ingredients that work for a variety of skin issues ranging from acne to wrinkles. Furthermore, they are relatively inexpensive ingredients, so it doesn’t cost much to add them to a product’s ingredient deck. However, not all acids are created or formulated equal. The acid type used is only as good as the formulation it sits in. Also, there are now a plethora of ways that acids are formulated, utilizing varying patented transportation systems. You will see ‘encapsulated’ acids, which are used to time-release the acid in small doses over a longer period of time. In this way, it reduces side effects from acid use which is a plus as it allows the user to incorporate more treatment products without over exasperating the skin for maximum benefits.

When choosing acids, it is best to focus on percentage and pH. These two factors are what determines how ‘strong’ the acid will be. If you are new to acids, it is important to start with a lower percentage acid with a higher pH. The percentage of the acid is typically listed on the product packaging or website. However, the pH of the product can sometimes be harder to find. When it is unknown, choose one that says it is ‘gentle’ or for sensitive skin. A good and normal acid pH is typically 3-4. The pH level of various acids will play a large role in the good and adverse effects of acids.

Consumers need to make sure they are aware of the acids in their skincare and choose one from a trusted brand or a clinically proven product. Also, make sure that you are not layering acids that are not meant to be used simultaneously. Sometimes using too many acids can cause superficial burns or degrade the skin’s barrier. Other times, using acids with various serums and active products can make the product ineffective. There is no point in spending $300 for a serum that is rendered ineffective due to the acid applied before or after. When in doubt, consult a skincare professional or use products that are formulated or know to be used together. Also, it is recommended not to use an acid in the same routine as an active serum.

Currently, AHAs & BHAs are ingredient types used the most in skincare and are in almost every category of product, including cleansers, masks, moisturizers, serums, and even alongside retinols. Consequently, the overuse of acids is increasing as well. It is important to be mindful of the skincare ingredients in your products and try not to use too many sequential steps containing various acids. For example, you wouldn’t want to use an acid cleanser, toner, serum, and/or moisturizer all in the same routine. A good rule of thumb is to incorporate an acid product in either your morning or nighttime routine 3-4x/ week and build up to once a day. Some thicker, less sensitive skin types can tolerate multiple exfoliating ingredients in the same routine, but a lot depends on the strength and pH of the products being applied..

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are used for a wide variety of skin concerns, and they are a powerful tool for skin health and anti-aging. However, they are probably the most overused acid in skincare. These acids include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, citric, mandelic, and malic acid. AHAs are extremely beneficial to the skin and can be tolerated in small quantities by most all skin types, excluding those with extremely sensitive or dry skin.

Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

Most notoriously used for acne, BHAs are a powerful tool that clears out pores by absorbing oil and removing dead skin cells. However, BHAs are also good at combating hyperpigmentation and rosacea. The most primary form of BHA used in skincare is Salicylic Acid which is derived from willow bark. The percentage of Salicylic Acid should be between .5%-2%. Some products will contain higher percentages, but unless known to be formulated gently, I wouldn’t exceed a 2% BHA.

Most have heard of top chemical exfoliators Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), but enzyme exfoliants haven’t yet received the notoriety they deserve. Active enzymes are just as important as other prominent cell-sloughing ingredients, and for some, are a powerful everyday solution against accelerated skin aging.

An enzyme is a protein substance formed by organic matter to catalyze a certain chemical reaction. More simply put, enzymes cause and speed up the many vital functions of our body, including the break down process of some protein substances within the skin. Most enzymes in skincare come from a variety of plant-based sources such as fruit-types like papaya, pineapple, and cranberry; from grass-like plants such as bamboo and lemongrass; while some enzymes are even gathered from animals, like baby salmon!

Also of note, enzymes are extremely active to the point where scientist have debated describing them as being alive. We won’t get into the debate now, but what is important to note is that enzymes remain active when in suitable conditions. Therefore, if you apply a serum or cream with an active enzyme, it will continue to chip away at dead skin cells until it is physically washed away or destabilized.

Like other exfoliants, most enzyme exfoliators come in cleansers and masks, but enzymes can also be found in some serums and moisturizers. Formulating products with enzymes can be tricky due to their unstable and ever-changing nature. Some enzyme ingredients are easier to work with than other active forms.

Top skincare brands, like Restorsea, have based their entire skincare line around enzymes. Restorsea’s enzyme, Aquabeautine XL, is derived from salmon roe. This enzyme is released upon the hatching of baby salmon within the shell and is unique because it is strong enough to break apart the outer, hard shell layer but gentle enough not to harm the delicate salmon roe. More information about Restorsea’s enzyme, AqubeautineXL, can be find on our blog titled, "Salmon Egg Skincare? Restorsea’s One-Of-A-Kind Aquatic Exfoliant".

All of Restorsea’s products contain this patented enzyme, however, they have had to discontinue some of their products in the past due to the overactive state of the enzyme. Since the enzyme is somewhat ‘alive’, or continuously active, it has caused erratic color changes to some products and has even caused deterioration of some of the product’s packaging. Therefore, Restorsea had to discontinue the products due to the inconsistent output of the products color and state. Though these may be considered examples of faults, it has absolutely piqued our interest as you can see the product at work and know that the active ingredients truly are active!

Personally, I like to use enzyme exfoliants in cleansers and mask, with an occasional lotion or serum. Masks like the Osmosis Polish Mask and iS Clinical’s TriActive Exfoliating Mask are among my favorites. Enzyme cleansers are some of my favorites as well, although you are not getting the full effect of the enzyme by washing it off so quickly. I do, however, think that enzyme cleanser are a great tool, because really anything in your cleanser is getting washed off as well. Some of my favorite enzyme cleansers are the Revision Papaya Cleanser and LeahLani Tropical Enzyme Cleansing Oil.

Leave-on products will give the enzyme the most time to work, but you want to be careful if you have reactive skin. Since the enzyme is active, it can continuously chip away at the dead skin, and can cause some skin sensitivity at first. However, some find that using leave-on enzymes can replace and be an alternative to some other exfoliating products, like retinols, for those who don’t tolerate it well. Restorsea’s Rebalancing Lotion is a great retinol alternative and leave-on enzyme product as is their All Day Every Day Lotion 3x which is in their PRO, physician-only dispensed line. My personal favorite leave-on enzyme exfoliant from Restorsea, or any skincare brand, is their Intensive Hand Treatment 10X and Firming Eye Serum, both of which are in their PRO line as well.