Most have heard of top chemical exfoliators Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), but enzyme exfoliants haven’t yet received the notoriety they deserve. Active enzymes are just as important as other prominent cell-sloughing ingredients, and for some, are a powerful everyday solution against accelerated skin aging.

An enzyme is a protein substance formed by organic matter to catalyze a certain chemical reaction. More simply put, enzymes cause and speed up the many vital functions of our body, including the break down process of some protein substances within the skin. Most enzymes in skincare come from a variety of plant-based sources such as fruit-types like papaya, pineapple, and cranberry; from grass-like plants such as bamboo and lemongrass; while some enzymes are even gathered from animals, like baby salmon!

Also of note, enzymes are extremely active to the point where scientist have debated describing them as being alive. We won’t get into the debate now, but what is important to note is that enzymes remain active when in suitable conditions. Therefore, if you apply a serum or cream with an active enzyme, it will continue to chip away at dead skin cells until it is physically washed away or destabilized.

Like other exfoliants, most enzyme exfoliators come in cleansers and masks, but enzymes can also be found in some serums and moisturizers. Formulating products with enzymes can be tricky due to their unstable and ever-changing nature. Some enzyme ingredients are easier to work with than other active forms.

Top skincare brands, like Restorsea, have based their entire skincare line around enzymes. Restorsea’s enzyme, Aquabeautine XL, is derived from salmon roe. This enzyme is released upon the hatching of baby salmon within the shell and is unique because it is strong enough to break apart the outer, hard shell layer but gentle enough not to harm the delicate salmon roe. More information about Restorsea’s enzyme, AqubeautineXL, can be find on our blog titled, "Salmon Egg Skincare? Restorsea’s One-Of-A-Kind Aquatic Exfoliant".

All of Restorsea’s products contain this patented enzyme, however, they have had to discontinue some of their products in the past due to the overactive state of the enzyme. Since the enzyme is somewhat ‘alive’, or continuously active, it has caused erratic color changes to some products and has even caused deterioration of some of the product’s packaging. Therefore, Restorsea had to discontinue the products due to the inconsistent output of the products color and state. Though these may be considered examples of faults, it has absolutely piqued our interest as you can see the product at work and know that the active ingredients truly are active!

Personally, I like to use enzyme exfoliants in cleansers and mask, with an occasional lotion or serum. Masks like the Osmosis Polish Mask and iS Clinical’s TriActive Exfoliating Mask are among my favorites. Enzyme cleansers are some of my favorites as well, although you are not getting the full effect of the enzyme by washing it off so quickly. I do, however, think that enzyme cleanser are a great tool, because really anything in your cleanser is getting washed off as well. Some of my favorite enzyme cleansers are the Revision Papaya Cleanser and LeahLani Tropical Enzyme Cleansing Oil.

Leave-on products will give the enzyme the most time to work, but you want to be careful if you have reactive skin. Since the enzyme is active, it can continuously chip away at the dead skin, and can cause some skin sensitivity at first. However, some find that using leave-on enzymes can replace and be an alternative to some other exfoliating products, like retinols, for those who don’t tolerate it well. Restorsea’s Rebalancing Lotion is a great retinol alternative and leave-on enzyme product as is their All Day Every Day Lotion 3x which is in their PRO, physician-only dispensed line. My personal favorite leave-on enzyme exfoliant from Restorsea, or any skincare brand, is their Intensive Hand Treatment 10X and Firming Eye Serum, both of which are in their PRO line as well.